Further to Your Post....
My Brother-in-law is a Amateur Radio User....
We used his Bench DC Power Supply (Variable voltage) to test my Rider 550 Mount
The Rider 550 Fully Charged 100%
Connected the Rider Mount to the Variable Power Supply Set to....
12.5 Volts... Readings across the Pins on the Mount = 5.55 Volts
With the Rider in Sleep Mode... I Clicked it onto the Mount
The Rider Started up OK
Also Tested the Mount at...12v,11v,10v,9v,8v,7v....
Readings each time across the Pins on the Mount = 5.55 Volts
With the Rider in Sleep Mode... I Clicked it onto the Mount at...12v,11v,10v,9v,8v,7v the Rider Started up OK each time
At 6.0 Volts... Readings across the Pins on the Mount... Was more or less Zero (slightly varying but hovering around Zero)
With the Rider in Sleep Mode... I Clicked it onto the Mount the Rider Would Not Start-Up
I have seen several posts on other fora with people having problems with the Riders power dock.
In most cases the actual problem was a bad connection with the 12V supply resulting in no or unstable power.
In manny or this cases (and other electrical modifications) people use the easiest way to make a connection.
And than the end up using something like this; Never use these things on a motorcycle
So invest more time making electrical modifications.
Most newer bikes have special plugs for connecting accessories. Why not use those.
In manny or this cases (and other electrical modifications) people use the easiest way to make a connection.
And than the end up using something like this; Never use these things on a motorcycle
Never use these period..
Same goes for using the frame or any other metal part as ground. Modern bikes use different metals, and running current though these can increase galvanic corrosion. Just run the ground to the battery.
Answers
@caranavi
Further to Your Post....
My Brother-in-law is a Amateur Radio User....
We used his Bench DC Power Supply (Variable voltage) to test my Rider 550 Mount
The Rider 550 Fully Charged 100%
Connected the Rider Mount to the Variable Power Supply Set to....
12.5 Volts... Readings across the Pins on the Mount = 5.55 Volts
With the Rider in Sleep Mode... I Clicked it onto the Mount
The Rider Started up OK
Also Tested the Mount at...12v,11v,10v,9v,8v,7v....
Readings each time across the Pins on the Mount = 5.55 Volts
With the Rider in Sleep Mode... I Clicked it onto the Mount at...12v,11v,10v,9v,8v,7v the Rider Started up OK each time
At 6.0 Volts... Readings across the Pins on the Mount... Was more or less Zero (slightly varying but hovering around Zero)
With the Rider in Sleep Mode... I Clicked it onto the Mount the Rider Would Not Start-Up
ATB YFM
In most cases the actual problem was a bad connection with the 12V supply resulting in no or unstable power.
In manny or this cases (and other electrical modifications) people use the easiest way to make a connection.
And than the end up using something like this;
Never use these things on a motorcycle
So invest more time making electrical modifications.
Most newer bikes have special plugs for connecting accessories. Why not use those.
Never use these period..
Same goes for using the frame or any other metal part as ground. Modern bikes use different metals, and running current though these can increase galvanic corrosion. Just run the ground to the battery.