Rider 550- Not charging the battery when mounted on a bike
When plugged into the mains battery shows charging
When powered by the bike this doesn’t happen ?
When powered by the bike this doesn’t happen ?
1
Answers
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Can you measure 5V at the two small pins on the dock?2
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No voltage regiestered0
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Check the 12V voltage at the cable from bike to Dock.
If te Dock doesn't get 12V it wil never be able to generate the 5V for the Rider.
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Hi
Mine is not charging and I am measuring 5 v at the pins.0 -
I have the same issue with my 450. Except I am reading 12v at the pins! Is the mount supposed to step-down from 12 to 5v?
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Yes! Please do double check.0
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did you find the problem?
I have a similar issue just under 12v on the mount pins !0 -
I'll re-check later. I had the meter on the earth point on the bike and tested each pin, it was late and I was not in the best frame of mind as I need it for a trip tomorrow !0
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I have the same problem, but in my case no power through the mount at all. I even bought a new mount, and the same problem - no power. I get power coming through the cable, but seems to be blocked going to the nav from the mount. it works when I connect the device to my USB charger on the bike connected directly to the Nav.0
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Hi
@hbrightmusic
My Rider 550 is connected directly to the 12 Volt Battery Via
A short fly lead to a Car Power Socket under the seat
And a in-line 12 volt Car Power plug fused 1Amp and the Tomtom supplied lead
I don't know if there is any reverse polarity connection protection built into the Mount ....
My set-up works/charges fine... The pins on the Mount the pins show...
ATB YFM1 -
Hi
@hbrightmusic
My Rider 550 is connected directly to the 12 Volt Battery Via
A short fly lead to a Car Power Socket under the seat
And a in-line 12 volt Car Power plug fused 1Amp and the Tomtom supplied lead
I don't know if there is any reverse polarity connection protection built into the Mount ....
My set-up works/charges fine... The pins on the Mount the pins show...
ATB YFM
Thanks for that. I did reverse the polarity too, but still nothing happened. Something is blocking the power coming through the mount. The device is hard wired to the ignition, so should switch on when I switch on the bike. That´s how my old Rider worked.1 -
Hi
@hbrightmusic
The fuse in the mount is Surface Mounted (Soldered to the PCB) and not easily replaceable
When I said "I don't know if there is any reverse polarity connection protection built into the Mount" I meant, I don't know if you reverse connect the Mount polarity whether it would ZAP the mount or whether the Mount Circuitry, was protected and would survive a reversed connection
ATB YFM1 -
Hi
@hbrightmusic
The fuse in the mount is Surface Mounted (Soldered to the PCB) and not easily replaceable
When I said "I don't know if there is any reverse polarity connection protection built into the Mount" I meant, I don't know if you reverse connect the Mount polarity whether it would ZAP the mount or whether the Mount Circuitry, was protected and would survive a reversed connection
ATB YFM
I tried it out on a new mount, and same again, no power coming through the mount, I guess I need to go back to the shop and let them try and find the problem.
But thanks anyway.0 -
Hi
@hbrightmusic
Have you tried connecting the Cable & Mount direct to a 12 volt supply and checked the pins in the Mount for a 5Volt reading
ATB YFM0 -
Hi
@hbrightmusic
Have you tried connecting the Cable & Mount direct to a 12 volt supply and checked the pins in the Mount for a 5Volt reading
ATB YFM
That will be my next mission, I´ll let you know......0 -
I have exactly the same issue with my essentially brand new RIDER 550 premium pack. My old Rider 2nd edition went mad during a trip in Italy and I found a shop with a Rider 550 in stock to replace it - having been told my old unit was not worth fixing as I could not get map updates any more. With my wallet €400 lighter all went well for the remainder of the tour but as it would be a major faff removing fairings etc to swap over the charging leads I was simply using the old ram mount to hold the new mount and GPS but it was running entirely off battery and required daily mains charging.
Today I finally had time to dismantle the bike and swapped the charging dock cables over from the old dock only to find there was no volts at the charging pins on the new dock. I have used a voltmeter to confirm I do have 12 volts on the cable feeding into the new dock and yes they are the correct polarity.
So do I need to ride 700km back to the shop in Italy or is there some way to just post it direct to TomTom to get a replacement which actually works? If so please tell me how I go about getting it exchanged?
Sadly I had wrongly assumed a brand new dock would work perfectly out of the box. It doubt I can get hold of a replacement in the next 24 hours before I need to leave for the Isle of Man TT. So I guess I will be visiting McDonalds daily just to charge my rider 550 as there are no mains power sockets when camping in a field. Grr.
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Hi
@Alpine_John_007
Does you bike have a CAN bus wiring system ??? on most CAN bus systems you can only connect accessories to certain parts of the system with a special lead
For a replacement Mount....
Ring Tomtom support France
01 57 32 40 67
du lundi au vendredi de 09h00 à 17h30
ATB YFM0 -
No Canbus on a 2007 VFR800vtec - the feed for the charging dock is taken direct from an auxiliary fuse box fed via a relay which only goes live when the ignition is on. As I said my voltmeter shows the charging dock is definitely getting 12 volts (yes I turned the ignition on!) but no volts at all on the two pins on the top of the dock - which suggests it is dead. Which is not a good omen for quality control on these units.
Thanks for the contact information - I cannot call until Monday which means I will probably be on the ferry to Dover before I have time to call, so I will let you know how that goes.0 -
hbrightmusic wrote: »Hi
@hbrightmusic
Have you tried connecting the Cable & Mount direct to a 12 volt supply and checked the pins in the Mount for a 5Volt reading
ATB YFM
That will be my next mission, I´ll let you know......
Hi there again,
I connected the Mount directly with the battery on the bike, and wow, yes it switched on the Navi. So the mount does work, but not when wired up to the ignition, it´s all very strange to me......0 -
Maybe the switched 12V you used doesn't support a PND.
You can try to tap 12V from a light bulb. This works in most cases.0 -
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Hi everyone,
I had the same issue yesterday and found a solution after trying around for about 1 hour:
I have two bikes:
1. Honda ST 1300 Pan European from 2002
2. Triumph Street Twin from 2016
Rider 550 together with mount worked without any problems on bike #1 while riding 3.700km across Italy and Croatia in April this year and also yesterday in my garage.
Rider 550 together with mount did NOT work on bike #2 when i wanted to install it yesterday.
So what is the difference?
On bike #1 the powercable (both + and -) is directly connected to the battery. On bike #2 + is connected to the common + of the fusebox and - was connected to the frame. On both bikes + is routed through a fuse (on bike #2 single fuse after the fusebox).
With this configuration i had the following voltages in the connection:
bike #1: on all plug-connections in the line to the mount: 12.5 V; on the pins (mount): 5.5 V
bike #2: on all plug-connections in the line to the mount: 11.3 V; on the pins (mount): 0.0 V
I changed many times between the bikes to confirm the results and always found the same.
Solution: I changed the connection of the - on bike #2 from the frame to the battery; + still from the fusebox and still with the single fuse in the connectioncable -> gave me 12.3 V in the plugs and 5.5 V on the mounts´pins.
My personal conclusion: the mount simply switches off powersupply to the pins when below 12 V (?) to save battery...
hope, this helps :-)2 -
Hi,
'connected to frame' may mean 'connected to a screw of the front fork' (is it sure that a 'good' chassis ground is led from battery via chassis via bearings to front fork???) or it may mean 'connected to a screw at chassis'.
Chassis ground is the better solution, presumed that the (-) cable of the battery is connected to chassis without corrosion at both ends of the cable. The (-) cable directly at the battery is checked/cleaned at each battery replacement. But the other end of the same cable may have been forgotten for years or (at older bikes) for decades. Corrosion at this cable may result in symptoms like yours. The starter motor and other circuitry also require a 'good' ground connection at this point.
My preferred connection points for satnav cables: Either the cartool plug (at newer BMW bikes) or the leads of the parking light bulb at front spotlight.0
