Runner 3 detecting heartrate even if not worn? — TomTom Community

Runner 3 detecting heartrate even if not worn?

StvrStvr Posts: 1 [New Traveler]
Hello,

Is anyone experiencing the same issue i have? I bought my Tomtom runner 3 cardio about two weeks ago and i noticed my heart rate wasn't monitored correctly, i was exercising in the gym and was well above the 130 bpm i got as a reading.

As a test, i have taken the watch from my wrist, then go to the run and let it try detect my heart rate. To my surprise, while holding the watch in my hand it seems to pick up a heart rate and display it; i see the green led flickering while i'm holding it by the wristband.
I have already checked the led and it's clean...

I'm really surprise about this behaviour, i would expect incorrect readings if not worn properly, but now it's giving me a fluctuating heart rate without even being worn?

Anyone any idea/tip?

Thanks a lot,
Steven

Comments

  • tfarabaughtfarabaugh Posts: 15,791 Superusers
    It is not very good at off wrist detection and will still detect HR at times if it is detecting any kind of a signal. Spikes in HR are generally from poor blood flow producing weak pulse strength, so the watch reads cadence instead. This is most common in running and is particularly apparent early in a workout or during a non-intense workout when you are not warmed up. You have to think of the optical heart rate as an algorithm that is attempting to track a signal in a set frequency range (30-230 or whatever it uses). If the pulse signal is weak it latches onto the next strongest rhythmic signal, which is your cadence in running and the vibrations of the bike in cycling. For most people who experience this while running it spikes to around 180-200 bpm which is also the average cadence people run at. Additionally, each person has a different HR signal ‘strength’, depending on a range of factors, so some are prone to get it more than others. But usually their signal strength is lower for the first 5-10 minutes until they warm up properly. So in that time, it is prone to latching onto cadence, which is a common fault with all optical HRs, unfortunately. If you notice it while it happening you can try moving the watch a bit or briefly pausing your run so it loses the cadence reading and latches back onto HR, which I find usually corrects it. I generally pause the watch, stand still for 20-30 seconds and will see it immediately start to drop. Once it gets into a more reasonable range and the pulse reading stops dithering (dithering is when it is not getting a good signal and it is a lighter grey in color) I start up again and it stays true for the rest of the run. You can also try switching wrists and the position on the wrist. I find I got better readings on my right wrist over my left and some people find they get better readings if the watch is on the inside of the wrist rather than the outside. It also helps if you warm up a bit to get your blood moving and your HR up so it is producing a strong signal. Play around with it and see if any of this helps you. The challenge for the manufacturers of optical HRs (and this is a common issue with all brands, my Scosche also does it) is to figure out how to factor out the other "noise" that is overriding the pulse signal without also factoring out other important data.

    I hope this helped answer your question. If so, please mark it as a solution so others can look for it if they have the same question.
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