Runner 2 has a totally (freaky) wrong heart-rate (time to call a doctor)

RunF0restRun
RunF0restRun Registered Users Posts: 1
New Traveler
edited January 24 in TomTom Sports
Hi,

Please note that I've read and fully understand this document on http://uk.support.tomtom.com/app/answers/detail/a_id/18512/p/4062

First of all: The training that I did today was 5 min slow - 20 min fast - 5 min slow.
The paces that I'm running should not have exceeded an average of 162 at the absolute most.
I have an amazing 177 to show for. Either I'm in the worst shape of my life or something is wrong with registering the correct rates.
I have 247 as maximum heart-rate
At the time I was running I heart a beeb when I past the 240 bpm limit. But I was not tired and my legs felt if they could do more. So I pushed on to go to 247 apparently. And then still I had a lot more to give. But hey, it's training and no competition so I just completed the training and that's that.

My question is now; My heart rate is not recorded properly. What do I need to do?
And which solution(s) can you offer? Time to call the doctor, or can you fix the device?
On the tomtom site the recording above 220 bpm was not visible, so I grabbed the screenshot of my runkeeper.

Thanks in advance,

Comments

  • xray79
    xray79 Registered Users Posts: 160
    Renowned Wayfarer
    Is this the first training you do with this watch or did you do other comparable runs? If so how are they with regards to your HR? How is teh daily HR tracking if that seems normal and it only happened once i would call it a one off and forget about it.
    Otherwise the HR sensor might be malfunctioning and if that's the case i would call/mail customer support.
  • tfarabaugh
    tfarabaugh Posts: 16,949
     Superuser
    Spikes in HR are generally from poor blood flow producing weak pulse strength, so the watch reads cadence instead (although 247 is even high for this). This is particularly apparent early in a workout or during a non-intense workout when you are not warmed up. You have to think of the optical heart rate as an algorithm that is attempting to track a signal in a set frequency range. If the pulse signal is weak it latches onto the next strongest rhythmic signal, which is your cadence in running and the vibrations of the bike in cycling. For most people who experience this while running it spikes to around 180-200 bpm which is also the average cadence people run at. Additionally, each person has a different HR signal ‘strength’, depending on a range of factors, so some are prone to get it more than others. But usually their signal strength is lower for the first 5-10 minutes until they warm up properly. So in that time, it is prone to latching onto cadence, which is a common fault with all optical HRs, unfortunately. If you notice it while it happening you can try moving the watch a bit or briefly pausing your run so it loses the cadence reading and latches back onto HR, which I find usually corrects it. I generally pause the watch, stand still for 20-30 seconds and will see it immediately start to drop. Once it gets into a more reasonable range and the pulse reading stops dithering (dithering is when it is not getting a good signal and it is a lighter grey in color) I start up again and it stays true for the rest of the run. You can also try switching wrists and the position on the wrist. I find I got better readings on my right wrist over my left and some people find they get better readings if the watch is on the inside of the wrist rather than the outside. It also helps if you warm up a bit to get your blood moving and your HR up so it is producing a strong signal. Play around with it and see if any of this helps you. The challenge for the manufacturers of optical HRs (and this is a common issue with all brands, my Scosche also does it) is to figure out how to factor out the other "noise" that is overriding the pulse signal without also factoring out other important data.

    If it continues with these extraordinary high readings (you need to factor out spikes for a second or two) then try performing a factory reset in case it is a problem with the frame. If it still continues you should call Customer support who can dig deeper to determine if it is a hardware failure. To do a factory reset, make sure the Connect software is running and dock the device to your computer. The Connect window will open; press the gear at the top right and select factory reset from the next screen. Follow the steps provided and when prompted to register or sign in to MySports, select sign in and use your existing account credentials. It is fairly straightforward and should take less than 5 minutes.

    To get the number for Customer Support, go to tomtom.com/support, choose Contact at the bottom, select the service required and the product name and click Contact Customer Care and then Phone Us. It will give you the phone number for the country your account is registered under (this can be changed by clicking the flag icon in the bottom right corner of the screen).

    I hope this helped answer your question. If so, please mark it as a solution so others can look for it if they have the same question.
  • djlegge
    djlegge Registered Users Posts: 14
    Apprentice Traveler
    I was getting HR's of 200+ (up to 240) at the start of my runs and sometimes during a long run. I figured it was probably seeing my running cadence after reading up on some forums (and a visit to the doctors !).
    For me, the best fix was to loosen the strap a little and wear a sweat band on my wrist so the watch slides up my arm a little. The watch is also quite tight because the arm is wider at this point, and the sweat band stops it jiggling about. I don't like wearing watches tight but it's actually pretty comfortable just above the wrist like this.
    HR readings are perfect since I started doing this. Hope this helps you.