Rider 550- Not charging the battery when mounted on a bike — TomTom Community

Rider 550- Not charging the battery when mounted on a bike

Brianw23Brianw23 Posts: 2 [Apprentice Traveler]
edited April 15 in RIDER
When plugged into the mains battery shows charging
When powered by the bike this doesn’t happen ?
«1

Answers

  • RoadRiderRoadRider Posts: 247 [Exalted Navigator]
    Can you measure 5V at the two small pins on the dock?
    TomTom Rider Projects https://roadrider.jouwweb.nl/
  • Brianw23Brianw23 Posts: 2 [Apprentice Traveler]
    No voltage regiestered
  • RoadRiderRoadRider Posts: 247 [Exalted Navigator]
    Check the 12V voltage at the cable from bike to Dock.

    If te Dock doesn't get 12V it wil never be able to generate the 5V for the Rider.

    TomTom Rider Projects https://roadrider.jouwweb.nl/
  • footyfooty Posts: 3 [New Traveler]
    Hi
    Mine is not charging and I am measuring 5 v at the pins.
  • Red_KingRed_King Posts: 3 [New Traveler]
    I have the same issue with my 450. Except I am reading 12v at the pins! Is the mount supposed to step-down from 12 to 5v?
  • MrMMrM Posts: 148 [Exalted Navigator]
    Yes! Please do double check.
  • ztech6ztech6 Posts: 55 [Renowned Wayfarer]
    did you find the problem?
    I have a similar issue just under 12v on the mount pins !
  • YamFazManYamFazMan Posts: 14,975 Superusers
    Hi
    @ztech6

    Are you sure ??? :o
    Should be 5 Volts across the pins on the Mount

    ATB YFM
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  • ztech6ztech6 Posts: 55 [Renowned Wayfarer]
    I'll re-check later. I had the meter on the earth point on the bike and tested each pin, it was late and I was not in the best frame of mind as I need it for a trip tomorrow !
  • YamFazManYamFazMan Posts: 14,975 Superusers
    Hi
    @ztech6

    The test is across the pins on the Mount
    the Voltage is reduced from 12v to 5v within the mount

    ATB YFM
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  • hbrightmusichbrightmusic Posts: 6 [Master Explorer]
    I have the same problem, but in my case no power through the mount at all. I even bought a new mount, and the same problem - no power. I get power coming through the cable, but seems to be blocked going to the nav from the mount. it works when I connect the device to my USB charger on the bike connected directly to the Nav.
  • YamFazManYamFazMan Posts: 14,975 Superusers
    Hi
    @hbrightmusic

    My Rider 550 is connected directly to the 12 Volt Battery Via
    A short fly lead to a Car Power Socket under the seat

    1u0usaflaxot.jpg
    And a in-line 12 volt Car Power plug fused 1Amp and the Tomtom supplied lead

    lyrfn9zir0s9.jpg

    I don't know if there is any reverse polarity connection protection built into the Mount ....
    My set-up works/charges fine... The pins on the Mount the pins show...
    1n9rm90c51op.jpg
    ATB YFM
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  • hbrightmusichbrightmusic Posts: 6 [Master Explorer]
    YamFazMan wrote: »
    Hi
    @hbrightmusic

    My Rider 550 is connected directly to the 12 Volt Battery Via
    A short fly lead to a Car Power Socket under the seat

    1u0usaflaxot.jpg
    And a in-line 12 volt Car Power plug fused 1Amp and the Tomtom supplied lead

    lyrfn9zir0s9.jpg

    I don't know if there is any reverse polarity connection protection built into the Mount ....
    My set-up works/charges fine... The pins on the Mount the pins show...
    1n9rm90c51op.jpg
    ATB YFM

    Thanks for that. I did reverse the polarity too, but still nothing happened. Something is blocking the power coming through the mount. The device is hard wired to the ignition, so should switch on when I switch on the bike. That´s how my old Rider worked.
  • YamFazManYamFazMan Posts: 14,975 Superusers
    edited May 15
    Hi
    @hbrightmusic

    The fuse in the mount is Surface Mounted (Soldered to the PCB) and not easily replaceable

    When I said "I don't know if there is any reverse polarity connection protection built into the Mount" I meant, I don't know if you reverse connect the Mount polarity whether it would ZAP the mount or whether the Mount Circuitry, was protected and would survive a reversed connection

    ATB YFM
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  • hbrightmusichbrightmusic Posts: 6 [Master Explorer]
    YamFazMan wrote: »
    Hi
    @hbrightmusic

    The fuse in the mount is Surface Mounted (Soldered to the PCB) and not easily replaceable

    When I said "I don't know if there is any reverse polarity connection protection built into the Mount" I meant, I don't know if you reverse connect the Mount polarity whether it would ZAP the mount or whether the Mount Circuitry, was protected and would survive a reversed connection

    ATB YFM

    I tried it out on a new mount, and same again, no power coming through the mount, I guess I need to go back to the shop and let them try and find the problem.

    But thanks anyway.
  • YamFazManYamFazMan Posts: 14,975 Superusers
    edited May 16
    Hi
    @hbrightmusic

    Have you tried connecting the Cable & Mount direct to a 12 volt supply and checked the pins in the Mount for a 5Volt reading

    ATB YFM
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  • hbrightmusichbrightmusic Posts: 6 [Master Explorer]
    YamFazMan wrote: »
    Hi
    @hbrightmusic

    Have you tried connecting the Cable & Mount direct to a 12 volt supply and checked the pins in the Mount for a 5Volt reading

    ATB YFM

    That will be my next mission, I´ll let you know......
  • Alpine_John_007Alpine_John_007 Posts: 2 [New Traveler]
    I have exactly the same issue with my essentially brand new RIDER 550 premium pack. My old Rider 2nd edition went mad during a trip in Italy and I found a shop with a Rider 550 in stock to replace it - having been told my old unit was not worth fixing as I could not get map updates any more. With my wallet €400 lighter all went well for the remainder of the tour but as it would be a major faff removing fairings etc to swap over the charging leads I was simply using the old ram mount to hold the new mount and GPS but it was running entirely off battery and required daily mains charging.

    Today I finally had time to dismantle the bike and swapped the charging dock cables over from the old dock only to find there was no volts at the charging pins on the new dock. I have used a voltmeter to confirm I do have 12 volts on the cable feeding into the new dock and yes they are the correct polarity.

    So do I need to ride 700km back to the shop in Italy or is there some way to just post it direct to TomTom to get a replacement which actually works? If so please tell me how I go about getting it exchanged?

    Sadly I had wrongly assumed a brand new dock would work perfectly out of the box. It doubt I can get hold of a replacement in the next 24 hours before I need to leave for the Isle of Man TT. So I guess I will be visiting McDonalds daily just to charge my rider 550 as there are no mains power sockets when camping in a field. Grr.

  • YamFazManYamFazMan Posts: 14,975 Superusers
    edited May 18
    Hi
    @Alpine_John_007

    Does you bike have a CAN bus wiring system ??? on most CAN bus systems you can only connect accessories to certain parts of the system with a special lead

    For a replacement Mount....
    Ring Tomtom support France
    01 57 32 40 67
    du lundi au vendredi de 09h00 à 17h30

    ATB YFM
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  • Alpine_John_007Alpine_John_007 Posts: 2 [New Traveler]
    No Canbus on a 2007 VFR800vtec - the feed for the charging dock is taken direct from an auxiliary fuse box fed via a relay which only goes live when the ignition is on. As I said my voltmeter shows the charging dock is definitely getting 12 volts (yes I turned the ignition on!) but no volts at all on the two pins on the top of the dock - which suggests it is dead. Which is not a good omen for quality control on these units.

    Thanks for the contact information - I cannot call until Monday which means I will probably be on the ferry to Dover before I have time to call, so I will let you know how that goes.
  • hbrightmusichbrightmusic Posts: 6 [Master Explorer]
    YamFazMan wrote: »
    Hi
    @hbrightmusic

    Have you tried connecting the Cable & Mount direct to a 12 volt supply and checked the pins in the Mount for a 5Volt reading

    ATB YFM

    That will be my next mission, I´ll let you know......

    Hi there again,

    I connected the Mount directly with the battery on the bike, and wow, yes it switched on the Navi. So the mount does work, but not when wired up to the ignition, it´s all very strange to me......
  • RoadRiderRoadRider Posts: 247 [Exalted Navigator]
    Maybe the switched 12V you used doesn't support a PND.

    You can try to tap 12V from a light bulb. This works in most cases.
    TomTom Rider Projects https://roadrider.jouwweb.nl/
  • hbrightmusichbrightmusic Posts: 6 [Master Explorer]
    RoadRider wrote: »
    Maybe the switched 12V you used doesn't support a PND.

    You can try to tap 12V from a light bulb. This works in most cases.

    Thats an interesting solution. I will be getting the dealer to sort it when it goes in for a new tyre and rear brake pads. Thank you.
  • caranavicaranavi Posts: 1 [New Traveler]
    Hi everyone,
    I had the same issue yesterday and found a solution after trying around for about 1 hour:

    I have two bikes:
    1. Honda ST 1300 Pan European from 2002
    2. Triumph Street Twin from 2016

    Rider 550 together with mount worked without any problems on bike #1 while riding 3.700km across Italy and Croatia in April this year and also yesterday in my garage.

    Rider 550 together with mount did NOT work on bike #2 when i wanted to install it yesterday.

    So what is the difference?

    On bike #1 the powercable (both + and -) is directly connected to the battery. On bike #2 + is connected to the common + of the fusebox and - was connected to the frame. On both bikes + is routed through a fuse (on bike #2 single fuse after the fusebox).

    With this configuration i had the following voltages in the connection:

    bike #1: on all plug-connections in the line to the mount: 12.5 V; on the pins (mount): 5.5 V
    bike #2: on all plug-connections in the line to the mount: 11.3 V; on the pins (mount): 0.0 V

    I changed many times between the bikes to confirm the results and always found the same.

    Solution: I changed the connection of the - on bike #2 from the frame to the battery; + still from the fusebox and still with the single fuse in the connectioncable -> gave me 12.3 V in the plugs and 5.5 V on the mounts´pins.

    My personal conclusion: the mount simply switches off powersupply to the pins when below 12 V (?) to save battery...

    hope, this helps :-)
  • kumokumo Posts: 5,897 Superusers
    edited August 16
    Hi,

    'connected to frame' may mean 'connected to a screw of the front fork' (is it sure that a 'good' chassis ground is led from battery via chassis via bearings to front fork???) or it may mean 'connected to a screw at chassis'.

    Chassis ground is the better solution, presumed that the (-) cable of the battery is connected to chassis without corrosion at both ends of the cable. The (-) cable directly at the battery is checked/cleaned at each battery replacement. But the other end of the same cable may have been forgotten for years or (at older bikes) for decades. Corrosion at this cable may result in symptoms like yours. The starter motor and other circuitry also require a 'good' ground connection at this point.

    My preferred connection points for satnav cables: Either the cartool plug (at newer BMW bikes) or the leads of the parking light bulb at front spotlight.

    Matthias
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