Tomtom multisport cardio does not pickup heart rate acceleration — TomTom Community

Tomtom multisport cardio does not pickup heart rate acceleration

oudelohuisoudelohuis Posts: 3 [Apprentice Traveler]
edited January 2019 in Runner & Multi-Sport
Hi all,

I'm using a tomtom multisport cardio for about half a year now, both treadmill mode while spinning and bike mode on my racebike outdoor. The latter has a bit of a problem. As long as I keep on riding there is no problem, but when I wait for a traffic light, my heart rate drops. Quite normal, and the tomtom does show the drop. But when the light turns green and i go riding my bike again, the heart rate should go up, but it lags and stays on a low level. Eventually when I have picked up my pace again, the heart rate is about half of what it should be, and it stays at that level.
I have tried a couple of ways to circumvent the problem:

1. Stop and and let my real heart rate drop until it reflects the tomtom heart rate and then start peddling slowly until I get back on a normal excercise level again

2. pull of the watch until it receives no HR signal anymore and then put it on again. Sometimes this works

If my ride does not contain to much stops at traffic lights where i have to wait long so that my HR drops below 100, i have no problem, but waiting for a train is a killer :-(

I am reluctant to turn off the watch and turn it on again, because i'm registering the ride to upload it to Strava....

anyone having the same problem ?
TOMTOM, do you have a fix for this problem ?

i´m about 50 years old and on outdoor rides my hr is about 150, peaks at 170-180

p.s. while spinning i have never encountered this problem, probably because my HR never drops below 120 during the excercise.

Comments

  • tfarabaughtfarabaugh Posts: 16,526
    Superusers
    oudelohuis wrote:
    Hi all,

    I'm using a tomtom multisport cardio for about half a year now, both treadmill mode while spinning and bike mode on my racebike outdoor. The latter has a bit of a problem. As long as I keep on riding there is no problem, but when I wait for a traffic light, my heart rate drops. Quite normal, and the tomtom does show the drop. But when the light turns green and i go riding my bike again, the heart rate should go up, but it lags and stays on a low level. Eventually when I have picked up my pace again, the heart rate is about half of what it should be, and it stays at that level.
    I have tried a couple of ways to circumvent the problem:

    1. Stop and and let my real heart rate drop until it reflects the tomtom heart rate and then start peddling slowly until I get back on a normal excercise level again

    2. pull of the watch until it receives no HR signal anymore and then put it on again. Sometimes this works

    If my ride does not contain to much stops at traffic lights where i have to wait long so that my HR drops below 100, i have no problem, but waiting for a train is a killer :-(

    I am reluctant to turn off the watch and turn it on again, because i'm registering the ride to upload it to Strava....

    anyone having the same problem ?
    TOMTOM, do you have a fix for this problem ?

    i´m about 50 years old and on outdoor rides my hr is about 150, peaks at 170-180

    p.s. while spinning i have never encountered this problem, probably because my HR never drops below 120 during the excercise.

    It is likely that the watch is losing HR signal and reading cadence instead. This is particularly apparent early in a workout or during a non-intense workout when you are not warmed up, or when your HR drops significantly. You have to think of the optical heart rate as an algorithm that is attempting to track a signal in a set frequency range (30-230 or whatever it uses). If the pulse signal is weak it latches onto the next strongest rhythmic signal, which is your cadence in running and the vibrations of the bike in cycling. For most people who experience this while running it spikes to around 180-200 bpm which is also the average cadence people run at. Additionally, each person has a different HR signal ‘strength’, depending on a range of factors, so some are prone to get it more than others. But usually their signal strength is lower for the first 5-10 minutes until they warm up properly. So in that time, it is prone to latching onto cadence, which is a common fault with all optical HRs, unfortunately. If you notice it while it happening you can try moving the watch a bit or briefly pausing your run so it loses the cadence reading and latches back onto HR (which is what you discovered by stopping), which I find usually corrects it. I generally pause the watch, stand still for 20-30 seconds and will see it immediately start to drop. Once it gets into a more reasonable range and the pulse reading stops dithering (dithering is when it is not getting a good signal and it is a lighter grey in color) I start up again and it stays true for the rest of the run. You can also try switching wrists and the position on the wrist. I find I got getter readings on my right wrist over my left and some people find they get better readings if the watch is on the inside of the wrist rather than the outside. Play around with it and see if any of this helps you. The challenge for the manufacturers of optical HRs (and this is a common issue with all brands, my Scosche also does it) is to figure out how to factor out the other "noise" that is overriding the pulse signal without also factoring out other important data.

    I hope this helps, please let me know if this answered your question. If it did, please mark it as a solution so others can look for it if they have the same question.
  • oudelohuisoudelohuis Posts: 3 [Apprentice Traveler]
    I find it hard to believe that after a short stop (less then 3 minutes) the warming up plays a role. Also the position of the watch on my wrist is not changed. So why should the signal be weaker when i start riding my bike again ?

    My idea/suggestion is that the algorithm in the watch is using some mean of different measurements and is not correctly incorporating the sudden higher value of the heartrate.

    I am wondering is any tech of tomtom is reading this forums and check this in the software. Like i said, if i spin up gradually, there is no problem, only when my heartbeat of about 80/90 (after 3 min of waiting for the green light) suddenly jumps to around 140.....
    140/2 is 70.... looks like 80/90 ??

    In short, i do not think
  • BlauwesmurfBlauwesmurf Posts: 4 [Neophyte Traveler]
    Still, after 2 more years, no update fixed the problem.
    Last saturday is rode the MH2D, a 1800 m altitude cycle tour for 120Km and more than 75% of the time my tomtom multisport had a heartrate below 100.... :-(
    very sad. only at 1 climb the heartrate was ok.

    The problem is still that when descending or standing still, my heartrate drops, and when my heartrate raises quick, the device does not pick this up and stays low. Probably reflecting my cadence or something.

    my next device will NOT be a tomtom.
  • tfarabaughtfarabaugh Posts: 16,526
    Superusers
    Still, after 2 more years, no update fixed the problem.
    Last saturday is rode the MH2D, a 1800 m altitude cycle tour for 120Km and more than 75% of the time my tomtom multisport had a heartrate below 100.... :-(
    very sad. only at 1 climb the heartrate was ok.

    The problem is still that when descending or standing still, my heartrate drops, and when my heartrate raises quick, the device does not pick this up and stays low. Probably reflecting my cadence or something.

    my next device will NOT be a tomtom.
    Your next device CAN NOT be a TT since they left the sports market last year and ceased all development.
  • BlauwesmurfBlauwesmurf Posts: 4 [Neophyte Traveler]
    my opinion on a certain product from a producer extends to other areas than the sports market. It means i will hesitate to buy any product from TT. Maybe they were only good at making dedicates routing devices
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